Россия Вперед! (Go Russia!)

Soccer is truly one of the world’s greatest mysteries. It starts wars, it ends wars. It makes you cry, it makes you jubilate. It makes you a pacifist; it makes you a hooligan. It seems that this sport has taken on dimensions of the ying and the yang-

it can be so beautiful, but yet, so violent.

I have been to various soccer games around the world. Most of these have been quite pleasant (like most of my experiences at DC United MLS games)- everyone gets along and the loser walks away unharmed. Some have been humorous (like the time I went to a Millonario game in Bogotá, Colombia)- the fans cared more about making fun of the referees than they actually did the game. Others have been horrifying (as when River Plate beat Boca Juniors in the Super Clasico in Buenos Aires, Argentina)- the Boca fans set the stadium on fire!

Therefore, I did not know how my first soccer game in Moscow would be. Russia was playing Holland in an international friendly. However (as most of you fans might know) Russia knocked Holland out of the Eurocup this summer in a stunning upset. Holland wanted revenge, and the Russians wanted to prove themselves once again.

I left my apartment and headed to the metro station where I was meeting my friends. I made sure I wasn’t wearing any orange (Holland’s national team colors) and that I had plenty of red on (Russia’s long time favorite color). The metro was filled with people drinking, shouting, jumping and singing. I thought the train was going to be derailed! There was so much commotion that I began to get nervous. “Not again,” I thought to myself, “another soccer game filled with riots.” I then began to think that Russian soccer riots would be a nightmare. “Russians are very intense. This is going to be bad!” I prepared myself for the worse.

I was waited for my friends at Okhotny Ryad metro station, right in the center of the city. Mobs of people waving Russian flags decked out in red flooded the halls. I thought to myself, “there ought to be no Dutch fans anywhere in this city and, if there are, they’re idiots.” Just then, I saw three super-hero looking figures covered in orange come walking out of the train doors. “Dutch fans? No way! They are going to be killed!”

These brave Dutchmen stood in the middle of the station for a good 15 minutes. However, no one harassed them. In fact, they were local celebrities. Everyone flocked to take their pictures… including myself! So, my theory about the chaotic/violent Russian soccer game was quickly proven wrong.

My friends finally came and we headed to the game. After another 20 minute metro ride of fans jumping, screaming “Россия Вперед!” (Rossia vpered) and, of course, still drinking (remember, this is Russia), we arrived at the beautiful stadium, took our seats and prepared for the game. Van Persie from the Netherlands scored a perfect upper 90 shot right outside the box in about the 25th minute, something (as you can imagine) the Russians did not appreciate. I think I learned all the Russian cuss words in one 45 minute half. However, with about 10 minutes left in the game, the referees call a penalty kick in favor of the home team. As you can see from the video below, Russia equalized. The game ended in a 1-1 draw.

The game was great, but getting home was even more interesting. You know how cops in the US place metal fences around the stadiums after events to keep people in line? Well, here in Russia, they use sheer man power as their fences. The military formed a human wall, all shoulder to shoulder, from one side of the stadium straight to the metro station, keeping everyone in order. It was incredible! I’ve never seen anything like it. From the second you stepped out of the stadium, you were pushed like cattle in a wall of GI Vladamirs straight to the trains.

So, that is the tale of the Russian soccer game: crazy fans, lots of beer and, of course, the military. Actually, more countries should follow the Russian’s lead- no one would dare start a fight with all the security around this place! I’m sure those crazy Dutch fans were happy about that one.

(Sorry, I got takled right after the goal. It was impossible to keep a steady shot!)